Rabbit Vaccinations and information

Rabbits can (and should) be vaccinated against Myxomatosis and Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD). Vaccinations stimulate the rabbits body to produce antibodies to particular diseases so that they become immune to (can't catch) them. Antibodies destroy viruses and bacteria entering the body. Different types of antibodies are needed to fight different illnesses. If a rabbit comes into contact with the disease after it has been vaccinated it has the antibodies already to fight the disease. An unvaccinated rabbit needs time to develop antibodies, during which the illness has time to develop and may be too advanced for the rabbit to fight successfully.

Vaccination is also often required for getting pet insurance, holiday boarding and attending events.

Note: This information is aimed at UK rabbit owners, vaccinations are not yet available in all countries (such as the USA), contact your vet to see if it is available to you.

What is Myxomatosis?

Myxomatosis is a potentially lethal disease affecting rabbits caused by the myxoma virus of the pox family. It originally came from Australia where it was released deliberately to reduce the massive wild rabbit population which were considered pests. It was transferred, again deliberately, to France and from there spread to the UK. It is common among the wild rabbit population in the UK. Over 90% of wild rabbis contracting Myxomatosis die from the disease. Recovery is more likely in pet rabbits if given intensive veterinary treatment.

It is spread by direct contact and by insects. Fluids from a infected rabbit such as discharge from the eyes, nose or lesions on the skin contain the virus and can infect another rabbits through scratches, abrasions or contact with mucus membranes.

Insects including mosquitoes, ticks, mites, lice and fleas can all carry the disease. This means that even if your rabbit doesn't come into contact with other rabbits it is still important to vaccinate. Insect carriers mean the disease can be transmitted over distances and even indoor rabbits are at risk.

Symptoms

The first symptoms are generally discharge from the eyes and swelling around head, ears and sometimes genitals. Within a fews days the eyes maybe swollen shut. The swelling can make eating, drinking and breathing difficult. Lumps or nodules may also develop. Secondary infections such as pastrella (snuffles) are common. Death can occur within a few days to several weeks. Those that recover may take weeks or even months to do so fully.

Prevention - Vaccination

Rabbits can be vaccinated against Myxomatosis from 6 weeks of age. Rabbits should not be vaccinated while pregnant or ill. After the firsit vaccination regular boosters are required.

Vaccination does not guarantee that a rabbit will not contract myxomatosis, there is still a small risk. Vaccinated rabbits contracting myxomatosis also have a greater chance of recovery.

Prevention - Insects

As insects are the main way myxomatosis spreads controlling them is an important way to minimise the risk of infection. It is important to treat other household pets such as cats and dogs for fleas. If you have an outbreak of fleas it will also be necessary to treat the house and carpets. Treatment for mites and lice can be recommended by your vets. Hutches and other living accommodation can be cleaned with anti-mite disinfectants designed specifically for use on animal cages. Hanging sticky fly paper (out of reach of rabbits teeth) can help control fleas and flies. Electronic fly traps can be used inside. Its important not to use fly sprays around your rabbit or other pets.

Treatment

Prompt treatment is important. Whilst there isn't an actual cure for Myxomatosis supportive treatment can allow the rabbit to fight the infection and stand a chance of survival.

Treatment may include frequent cleaning of the eyes and other discharge, force feeding (if the rabbit stops eating), fluids and anti-biotics to prevent secondary infections.

If you believe your rabbit is suffering then choosing to put your rabbit to sleep may be the kindest action to take. Your vet should talk through treatment options and likelyhood of survival with you and will advise you on the best course of action.

What is Viral Haemorrhagic Disease?

Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD) is a more recent disease that Myxomatosis, it was first reported in the UK in only 1992. It is spread through direct contact between rabbits and also through contaminated surfaces such as bedding, hutches and clothing. This means both indoor and outdoor rabbits are at risk.

It can survive for 3 months at room temperature. The incubation period is 1-3 days and death usually occurs 12-36 hours after the onset of fever.

Symptoms

Symptoms can include high fever, lethargy, collapse, convulsions, paralysis, breathing difficulties, loss of appetite and bleeding from the nose. In some cases (approx. 1 in 10) there are no visible symptoms. The rapidness of the disease means that the rabbit may die within 24 hours of noticeable symptoms.

Prevention - Vaccination

Vaccination is very successful, it can be done from 12-14 weeks of age. The vaccination is also safe for pregnant rabbits. A booster needs to be given every 12 months to ensure continued protection.

Vaccination against Myxomatosis must not be done within 2 weeks of vaccination against VHD.

Prevention - Other

Don't handle rabbits in pet shops or other similar environments and wash your hands thoroughly after visiting environments that contain other rabbits. Buy bedding and food from reputable sources. Take precautions to minimise insects coming into contact with your rabbits (see Myxomatosis prevention).

Treatment

There is no cure and VHD disease is almost always fatal, most rabbits die within days. Surviving rabbits are infectious and can spread the disease.

Fly Strike

Flystrike (‘myiasis’) is a major welfare problem that mainly occurs during warm weather, although it can occur at any time.

It’s a painful condition that can affect rabbits, guinea pigs, cats and dogs as well as farm animals such as sheep, goats, llamas and alpacas.

Even clean, well-kept animals can get flystrike. It only takes one fly and one area of soiled fur/fleece or damaged skin!

Flystrike occurs when certain species of fly lay their eggs on another animal. These eggs hatch into maggots that then begin to eat the animal’s flesh. Flies are attracted by soiled or wet fur/fleece, often around the animal’s rear end. However, any area of the body can be affected, as can any wound, cut or scratch. Flystrike causes serious pain and suffering and it can be fatal.

Which animals are most at risk of flystrike?

Animals that have a dirty rear end or generally dirty fur/fleece are at risk. This may occur in animals which:

are unable to clean themselves properly (because they are long-haired/woolly, overweight, elderly, unwell, in pain or have dental, spinal or balance problems)
are ill, as they may not feel well enough to clean themselves thoroughly and, depending on their illness, may also produce abnormally smelly urine or have diarrhoea, which will attract flies
are fed an inappropriate diet
have an internal parasitic infection
have an open wound anywhere on the body.

Preventing flystrike

Flystrike can occur in a matter of hours. Because the toxins released into the bloodstream by the maggots can cause the animal to go into toxic shock, death can result very quickly if flystrike is not spotted and treated rapidly.

Owners/stock-keepers should discuss with their vet the most appropriate ways of reducing the risk of flystrike before the high-risk period starts.

Animals at risk of flystrike should be inspected at least twice a day between April and October, when the weather is warmer. Their body should be checked all over, especially around the rear end where the fur/wool can become contaminated with droppings and urine.

To help prevent flystrike you should ...

Check your pet thoroughly for signs of illness, injury or abnormal behaviour every day and in warm weather check the fur and skin around your pet’s rear end and tail area at least twice a day.
If your pet has a dirty back end, clean it immediately with warm water to remove all traces of soiling and ensure the area is dried thoroughly. It may be necessary to clip the fur away from your pet’s back end; if you are unsure how to do this properly, seek advice from a pet care specialist.
Clean litter trays or toilet areas every day.
Clean housing and change bedding regularly – at least once a week.
Ensure your pet is not overweight and is fed a correct diet. Your vet can give you further advice to help manage your pet’s weight and ensure an appropriate diet is provided.
For animals that live outside, consider ways of insect-proofing their housing, e.g. by putting net curtains over hutches and runs.
Consider neutering female rabbits, as entire females may be more prone to flystrike, especially if disease of the uterus develops.

What should I do if I suspect flystrike?

If an animal becomes infested, they should be examined by a vet immediately or, if this is not possible, seek immediate veterinary advice.

Is flystrike treatable?

If caught early, flystrike can be successfully treated, but success depends upon how much damage has been done and if your vet considers your animal to have a reasonable chance of recovery. After treatment, wounds can take several weeks to heal.

During this time, your animal will be at increased risk of further bouts of flystrike and infection, so they will require careful nursing and additional preventative measures should be taken.

How to keep rabbits cool in summer – simple top tips

Rabbits do not cope well in hot temperatures. They can suffer from heat stroke & this can be fatal. To prevent your rabbit from getting heat stroke, you need to take action to keep your rabbit as cool as possible on warm sunny days. Follow our simple & effective tips to keep your bunny cool & healthy.

Create lots of shade

1.Create lots of shaded areas for your rabbit within their accommodation, with good ventilation. Create shaded areas behind items like nest boxes, or raise nest boxes & hutches so they can lay underneath them in the shade. (Make sure you raise them up off the ground safely)

2.Patio umbrellas & sun sail shades are a great way to provide instant shade.

3.Car screen sunshades are great to create some shade & help to keep rabbit homes from heating up. Buy more than one, tape them together to make one large sun screen and place on top of roofs or over sides of rabbit enclosures that catch the sun for long periods.

Create cool flooring

1.Concrete slabs or ceramic tiles placed in a shaded area provides your rabbit with something cool to lay on. Ceramic tiles can be placed in a freezer for a few hours to make them even cooler. Have more than one tile in the freezer so you can alternate them through the day.

2.Litter trays with soil in also provide a cool place for bunnies to lie down in.

3.Damp towels or damp cotton pillowcases also provide cool flooring for bunnies to lay on, you can also keep these in the freezer so they are cooler for longer & alternate them. You could place a ceramic tile inside the pillow case.

Create effective cooling blocks

1.Frozen plastic water bottles: Fill old plastic pop bottles up with water and freeze. Place inside a cotton pillow case and lay on top of a ceramic tile inside your bunnies enclosure. The is a great way to keep your bunnies cool and the bigger the plastic bottle the longer it will stay frozen. They love laying against them. Have a few bottles in the freezer so you can alternate them morning and night. You can also use lots of smaller plastic bottles and place them inside cotton socks and dot them around your bunnies enclosure.

2.Plastic lunch boxes & containers: Fill with water and freeze and place in your bunnies enclosures for them to sit on or lean against. The good thing about plastic containers is they come in all shapes and sizes, so you can use what suits your bunny & their accommodation best.

3.Terracotta plant pot saucers: Place these upside down with an ice block placed underneath it & your bunny can lay on top of this to keep cool.

Fans

1.If you can provide fans for your bunnies, make sure it is in a position where your bunny can move away from it.

2.If inside their accommodation – attach small fans on walls pointing downwards to help the bunnies get the full effect and to keep the wires safely out of reach.

Create your own air conditioning

Place a damp towel over a chair and place in front of your rabbits enclosure. Place a fan behind it. The fan blows out the moisture from the damp towel and acts as air conditioning would.

Provide lots of water

1.Provide your bunnies with water bowls as well as bottles. If your bunny usually drinks from a bottle, you may find they will welcome drinking from a bowl also in hot weather. They can use the water to clean themselves and this will cool them down.

2.Bunnies that drink from bowls will drink more water in hot weather, so to have a bottle available also will ensure they never run out of water.

3.Place ice cubes in the water bowls to keep the water cooler for longer.

Buy a water spray bottle

1.Set the spray on a mist spray and spray from a height over your bunnies. Only spray a little at a time to help keep them cool. Damp tissues wiped over your rabbits ears and back of their heads will also help to cool them down.

2.These bottles are also handy to spray items like cotton pillow cases for them to lay on.

Never leave a rabbit in direct sunlight for long periods. If you cannot move them into a shaded area or create a shaded area, bring them indoors.

Never cool a rabbit down by placing them into cold water – they can die from shock. Wipe a damp tissue over their ears to help cool them down.

If you think your rabbit is suffering from the heat, contact your vet asap.

Vaccination is also often required for getting pet insurance, holiday boarding and attending events.

Note: This information is aimed at UK rabbit owners, vaccinations are not yet available in all countries (such as the USA), contact your vet to see if it is available to you.

﻿

﻿What is Myxomatosis?

﻿

It is spread by direct contact and by insects. Fluids from a infected rabbit such as discharge from the eyes, nose or lesions on the skin contain the virus and can infect another rabbits through scratches, abrasions or contact with mucus membranes.

﻿

Symptoms

﻿

﻿

﻿

Rabbits can be vaccinated against Myxomatosis from 6 weeks of age. Rabbits should not be vaccinated while pregnant or ill. After the firsit vaccination regular boosters are required.

Vaccination does not guarantee that a rabbit will not contract myxomatosis, there is still a small risk. Vaccinated rabbits contracting myxomatosis also have a greater chance of recovery.

Prevention - Insects

﻿

﻿

Treatment

​

Prompt treatment is important. Whilst there isn't an actual cure for Myxomatosis supportive treatment can allow the rabbit to fight the infection and stand a chance of survival.

Treatment may include frequent cleaning of the eyes and other discharge, force feeding (if the rabbit stops eating), fluids and anti-biotics to prevent secondary infections.

If you believe your rabbit is suffering then choosing to put your rabbit to sleep may be the kindest action to take. Your vet should talk through treatment options and likelyhood of survival with you and will advise you on the best course of action.

﻿

What is Viral Haemorrhagic Disease?

﻿

It can survive for 3 months at room temperature. The incubation period is 1-3 days and death usually occurs 12-36 hours after the onset of fever.

﻿

Symptoms

﻿

﻿

Prevention - Vaccination

﻿

Vaccination against Myxomatosis must not be done within 2 weeks of vaccination against VHD.

​

Prevention - Other

﻿

﻿

Treatment

​

There is no cure and VHD disease is almost always fatal, most rabbits die within days. Surviving rabbits are infectious and can spread the disease.

​

Fly Strike

​

Flystrike (‘myiasis’) is a major welfare problem that mainly occurs during warm weather, although it can occur at any time.

It’s a painful condition that can affect rabbits, guinea pigs, cats and dogs as well as farm animals such as sheep, goats, llamas and alpacas.

Which animals are most at risk of flystrike?

​

Animals that have a dirty rear end or generally dirty fur/fleece are at risk. This may occur in animals which:

are unable to clean themselves properly (because they are long-haired/woolly, overweight, elderly, unwell, in pain or have dental, spinal or balance problems)

are ill, as they may not feel well enough to clean themselves thoroughly and, depending on their illness, may also produce abnormally smelly urine or have diarrhoea, which will attract flies

are fed an inappropriate diet

have an internal parasitic infection

have an open wound anywhere on the body.

Preventing flystrike

​

Flystrike can occur in a matter of hours. Because the toxins released into the bloodstream by the maggots can cause the animal to go into toxic shock, death can result very quickly if flystrike is not spotted and treated rapidly.

Owners/stock-keepers should discuss with their vet the most appropriate ways of reducing the risk of flystrike before the high-risk period starts.

Animals at risk of flystrike should be inspected at least twice a day between April and October, when the weather is warmer. Their body should be checked all over, especially around the rear end where the fur/wool can become contaminated with droppings and urine.

To help prevent flystrike you should ...

Check your pet thoroughly for signs of illness, injury or abnormal behaviour every day and in warm weather check the fur and skin around your pet’s rear end and tail area at least twice a day.

If your pet has a dirty back end, clean it immediately with warm water to remove all traces of soiling and ensure the area is dried thoroughly. It may be necessary to clip the fur away from your pet’s back end; if you are unsure how to do this properly, seek advice from a pet care specialist.

Clean litter trays or toilet areas every day.

Clean housing and change bedding regularly – at least once a week.

Ensure your pet is not overweight and is fed a correct diet. Your vet can give you further advice to help manage your pet’s weight and ensure an appropriate diet is provided.

For animals that live outside, consider ways of insect-proofing their housing, e.g. by putting net curtains over hutches and runs.

Consider neutering female rabbits, as entire females may be more prone to flystrike, especially if disease of the uterus develops.

What should I do if I suspect flystrike?

If an animal becomes infested, they should be examined by a vet immediately or, if this is not possible, seek immediate veterinary advice.

Is flystrike treatable?

If caught early, flystrike can be successfully treated, but success depends upon how much damage has been done and if your vet considers your animal to have a reasonable chance of recovery. After treatment, wounds can take several weeks to heal.

During this time, your animal will be at increased risk of further bouts of flystrike and infection, so they will require careful nursing and additional preventative measures should be taken.

How to keep rabbits cool in summer – simple top tips

Create lots of shade

1.Create lots of shaded areas for your rabbit within their accommodation, with good ventilation. Create shaded areas behind items like nest boxes, or raise nest boxes & hutches so they can lay underneath them in the shade. (Make sure you raise them up off the ground safely)

2.Patio umbrellas & sun sail shades are a great way to provide instant shade.

3.Car screen sunshades are great to create some shade & help to keep rabbit homes from heating up. Buy more than one, tape them together to make one large sun screen and place on top of roofs or over sides of rabbit enclosures that catch the sun for long periods.

Create cool flooring

1.Concrete slabs or ceramic tiles placed in a shaded area provides your rabbit with something cool to lay on. Ceramic tiles can be placed in a freezer for a few hours to make them even cooler. Have more than one tile in the freezer so you can alternate them through the day.

2.Litter trays with soil in also provide a cool place for bunnies to lie down in.

3.Damp towels or damp cotton pillowcases also provide cool flooring for bunnies to lay on, you can also keep these in the freezer so they are cooler for longer & alternate them. You could place a ceramic tile inside the pillow case.

Create effective cooling blocks

What is Myxomatosis?